Journey to the Heart of Bluestone: Tracing My Footsteps in the Preseli Hills to find rejects
Carn Goedog
The wind whips through the ancient grasses of the Preseli Hills, carrying whispers of a time long past. A time when colossal stones, destined for monumental purposes, were hewn from the very earth beneath my feet and embarked on an epic journey across the landscape. For me, someone captivated by the mystery of Stonehenge, the Preseli Hills in Pembrokeshire, Wales, hold a special allure: they are the legendary source of Stonehenge's enigmatic bluestones.
But this isn't just a trip to see where the stones came from. It's an opportunity to walk in the footsteps of our ancestors, to imagine the monumental effort, the ingenuity, and perhaps even the spiritual significance that drove them to extract these unique stones. And, fascinatingly, it’s a chance to discover the "rejects" – the unused stones, presumably not selected by those ancient builders, left behind to tell their own quiet story.
Why the Preseli Hills? My Allure to the Bluestones
For centuries, the precise origin of Stonehenge's smaller, yet geologically distinct, bluestones was a puzzle. Modern scientific analysis, particularly geochemical fingerprinting, has definitively traced them to specific outcrops within the Preseli Hills. These aren't just any old rocks; they are primarily dolerite, often spotted with plagioclase feldspar, giving them their characteristic "bluestone" appearance when freshly broken or wet.
Their journey to Salisbury Plain, over 150 miles away, remains a subject of intense debate and awe. Was it a glacial transport (a theory largely debunked for the majority of the stones)? Or, more likely, a sophisticated human endeavor involving incredible feats of engineering and communal effort, possibly by land and sea? These are the questions that drew me here.
My Quest: Finding the Quarries and the Unused Stones
Venturing into the Preseli Hills to seek out the bluestone quarries was an adventure in itself. This isn't a manicured tourist attraction; it's a wild, beautiful, and sometimes challenging landscape that truly forces you to connect with nature.
Carn Menyn (Mynydd Preseli): This is perhaps the most famous and well-researched bluestone quarry site, and it was my primary target. Located on the northern flanks of Mynydd Preseli, Carn Menyn offers tangible evidence of ancient quarrying activity. As I looked closely, I could spot areas where stones had been split from the bedrock, as well as discarded fragments. The landscape here felt profoundly ancient, resonating with the echoes of untold generations.
Other Potential Sites: While Carn Menyn was the star, research suggests other smaller outcrops in the vicinity, such as Carn Sian and Carn Goedog, also yielded bluestones. Exploring these areas, with a good map and a keen eye, revealed more subtle traces of human interaction with the stone. It felt like a treasure hunt, seeking out these faint clues.
The Unchosen Stones: This is where the real magic of my trip lay. As I traversed the hills, I kept an eye out for stones that appeared to have been partially worked or detached from the bedrock but left in situ. These are the "rejects" – stones that, for whatever reason (perhaps a flaw, an inconvenient size, or simply a change in plan), were not deemed suitable for the arduous journey to Stonehenge. They are silent witnesses to the selection process, offering a glimpse into the criteria and decisions of our prehistoric ancestors. I found myself imagining the discussions, the assessments, the perhaps spiritual significance that guided their choices.
Sheep near Carn Menyn
Tips for Your Own Bluestone Expedition
If you're inspired to undertake your own journey to the Preseli Hills, here are some tips based on my experience:
Dress Appropriately: The Preseli Hills can be exposed. I was glad I wore sturdy walking boots, waterproofs, and layers – the weather can change in an instant.
Navigation is Key: I made sure to carry a detailed Ordnance Survey map (e.g., OL35 North Pembrokeshire) and a compass, and I also used a reliable GPS device. Footpaths can be indistinct in places, so being prepared is crucial.
Respect the Landscape: These are ancient and ecologically sensitive areas. I made sure to stick to footpaths, take all my litter home, and leave no trace.
Be Prepared for All Weathers: Pembrokeshire weather can change rapidly. I experienced everything from sunshine to sudden gusts of wind and light rain.
Learn Before You Go: I highly recommend reading up on the geology of the Preseli Hills and the various theories surrounding the transport of the bluestones. It truly enriched my experience immensely.
Local Resources: Consider visiting local information centers or museums in Pembrokeshire, which often have displays about the bluestones and prehistoric Wales. I found them to be a great starting point.
My journey to the Preseli Hills was more than just a hike; it was an immersive dive into one of humanity's most enduring mysteries. Standing amidst the rugged beauty of these ancient hills, touching the very stones that once captivated our ancestors, I couldn't help but feel a profound connection to the past, and a renewed sense of wonder at the incredible achievements of those who came before us. So pack your boots, your sense of adventure, and prepare to uncover the secrets of the bluestones for yourself.
Have you ever visited a place that brought ancient history to life for you?
